Scotland: land of rain and midges

Day 4 - more poised (for now....)

I’ve made a more poised entry to the Wee campsite, number 30 in the Cool Camping Scotland book. The midges are just appearing but though it’s overcast it’s dry – well it’s not raining. I'm wearing my anti-midge headnet.

Midge war

This little site seems to attract people from all over Europe who sit on easy chairs in couples quietly reading paperbacks. The view is over a loch and there is sunlight on distant mountains but I hardly look at the view. I rode through breathtaking scenery and as I was warned you begin to take it for granted. You almost have to. Earlier I met four Spanish bike riders who find Scotland to be paradise although they told me at home it was already 30 degrees and not raining. I stopped and chatted and caught them up thanks to my new found countersteering skill which zooms me around corners. Then they all peeled off, riding in absolute single file, no staggered formation for them, to see a castle while I kept on. I rode 80 miles in vain for the Mallaig ferry from Fort William (and back) only to find it was all booked till 4:30, meaning a 3 hour wait so I zoomed back - still fun.

This is a pretty little site with basic facilities.


My neighbours in a huge tent are still out (see next installment). We are all a bit squashed and a man about 20 feet away continually coughs in a way that suggests he won’t be holidaying next year. Tomorrow I will make it up to the top of this beautiful country. To Durness.

Now a German couple drive in on vintage bikes each with a sidecar, one is a 1944 BMW! The other is a single cylinder bike (AJS I think) that sounds fantastic as it arrives. They have ridden round Iceland via Denmark on their way here and within minutes - no seconds - of efficiency have put up a big Robins tent. I am amazed. This makes me consider getting a larger tent to shelter from the rain that seems to afflict every camping trip.

Vintage 1944 German BMW with sidecar

Look, tent envy.


Day 4 summary:

Miles 188.7
Average speed 43.3
Max speed 88.4 Riding time 4.33

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